The Latest Trends in Women’s Fashion: Kriti Tula’s Guide To What’s New
Tula said the label, which includes a men’s line featuring patchwork shirts with denim strips, emerged out of her concern for global warming and the fashion industry’s impact on the environment.
Having worked at large textile export houses, the designer said she saw firsthand the environmental value of high fashion: textile and water waste and the toxins emitted in the manufacturing process.
“What we wear ultimately affects what we eat and consume and the way we breathe,” Tula told Reuters at his workshop in the capital.
The United Nations Environment Program said in 2019 that the nearly $2.4 trillion global fashion industry accounts for 8-10% of the world’s carbon emissions – more than all international flights and sea shipping.
The industry is also the second-largest consumer of water, producing about 20% of the world’s wastewater.
The Environmental Impact of Fashion
Avoiding unnecessary fashion waste is one of the ways the fashion industry is trying to address its impact on the environment.
“The fashion industry doesn’t have control over the growth rate of the world economy, it doesn’t have control over consumption, so what we can do is make sure that the growth rate of consumption is aligned with the rate of growth of the planet,” Helena Morrison, head of sustainability at H&M, told Reuters in an interview.
The fashion industry is already beginning to recognize the issue and many global clothing brands and retailers are investing in environmentally sustainable materials and production methods, the UN Environment Programme said.
Kriti Tula worked for high-end brands including French house Balmain in Paris and Burberry in London before leaving to set up her own label.
Her fashion aims to be as eco-friendly as possible, from textiles to production to distribution. The collection for 2019, part of a line called “Sustainable Ecology” and launched at fashion week in Mumbai on January 15, has no leather, no fur, and no synthetic fibers.
‘Women Should Be Aware Of The Health Risk Of Wearing Fake‘
Tula, whose passion and expertise in textiles came from her travels around the world, used mainly indigenous and recycled fabrics like makhana and to create by Tula, selling through a showroom in Mumbai, online, and across India.
What To Know About Tula’s Design Philosophy
— Tula says she believes in experimentation, rather than trends. The last six years have seen her introduce several new categories to the main diffusion line — starting with jeans in 2015, and embroidered dresses, trench coats, and coats for men in 2017.
— Her work uses organic and natural fabrics sourced from around the world, often woven by artisans in the motherland of a textile product — and from free trade zones such as China and India.
— “Fashion shouldn’t harm the environment,” Tula said. “All my clothes are made with a sewing machine and there are no sewing machines that use any chemical substances.”
Do Labels Like Tula Make A Difference?
More than just fashion trends, sustainability is becoming a major factor for consumers to vote with their wallets.
The Latest Trends In Women’s Fashion
Vogue’s fashion director for South Asia Anaita Shroff Adajania said her team wanted to shine a spotlight on how brands such as Tula were using local resources in their products, rather than unsustainable ones from overseas.
While price-conscious Indian customers still rely on discount chains like Big Bazaar, Tula’s prices range from about $175 for a T-shirt to $540 for a blouse.
The label currently works with two hundred weavers and purchases fabrics from them in installments, instead of setting up dedicated weaving units like other fashion brands.
Nasiba’s range of bags and purses cost $60 to $420. The designers also source their high-quality gold from artisanal minefields.
How does the environment impact fashion?
“Fashion takes a huge toll on the environment, both in its production and consumption,” Tula said. The fashion industry also pumps out toxic substances – including solvents, bleach, and chlorine – that get washed off clothes after they are worn, she said.
How does this affect the design?
Tula has had to develop her designs to adapt to the environmental challenge, modifying yarns, knitting patterns, dyes, and cutting patterns in ways that reduce the impact on the environment, she said.
The fashion industry is moving away from heavy denim fabrics – the mainstay of her business – to lighter blends. “We have had to redesign the traditional dyeing techniques. People have started using new vegetable dyes and less toxic materials, which are also more eco-friendly and water friendly.
The Future of Fashion
“Everything that we wear eventually impacts everything that we eat and consume and we breathe.”—Kriti Tula, designer Fashion rapidly evolves and faces growing criticism for its environmental and social impact.
Earlier this year, an online campaign in Britain called Fashion Without Plastic saw companies including Gucci and Burberry pledged to phase out non-recyclable plastics and plastics that can’t be reused or recycled by the end of 2023.
It is part of a growing global movement to reduce plastic pollution and consumption and involve consumers in efforts to curb pollution.
“Fashion can help reduce waste,” said the founder of the group, creative director Louise Wilson, who said the campaign resulted in 3,000 businesses signing up to take part, up from 200 the previous year.
Tula and her team at Sundari try to minimize those environmental costs by producing their garments on flexible textile methods like knitting, cross-stitching, serging, and tie-dyeing, using materials like organic cotton. They make limited runs and their designs are made in limited sizes to keep production costs low.
Sundari is the name of Tula’s mother who gave birth to her during a communal mass in India, where caste determined someone’s place in society. Tula, her mother, and three siblings migrated to Canada when she was 11.
“My mother raised us on her own and we came to live in an apartment building in Vancouver, which was very close to the ocean and I’d go there with my friends and play on the sand and get as dirty as I could,” she told Reuters.
The new Indian designers that are changing the industry
The rise of Indian designers is already in full swing, with new talent showcasing alongside established names at the upcoming London Fashion Week and upcoming seasons’ collections displayed on the runways of Paris and Milan.
“Indian fashion designers are starting to gain traction with big players like Celine, as well as countless new stores worldwide,” said Mukesh Agarwal, founder of trade portal Turnaround.com.
Anabhitha Ashok, a 26-year-old in the southern city of Hyderabad, launched her label Kusum bags in January 2018, drawing on designs she saw on social media and design cues from her childhood.
Anandita Sharma, 28, who studied fashion design in London and worked as a stylist in India, was launched in March 2018 with her collection “Rabbitayyat“.
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